< Georgia >

Music, Mountains and Monasteries

The small country with the size of Ireland surprised us with its diverse terrain and climates. The beautiful Black Sea coast but also some of Europe`s highest mountains are all part of this country. The 12 different climate zones range from subtropical to alpine to semi-desert. Visitors can see green valley with vineyards as well as ancient monasteries and churches. In the former Soviet Union Georgia was known for its exceptional fruits and superb wines. There has been wine production in that area for at least 8000 years.

Beautiful sunset in Batumi

Taking a break on the Black Sea coast

We didn`t really know much about the country, so we had no expectations when we entered from Turkey in Sarpi. Coming from Turkey in the late afternoon the first thing we saw were glittering casinos instead of Mosques. Everything was written in kartuli anbani, the Georgian alphabet.

ATM written in kartuli anbani – and luckily other languages

We were glad that there were also Latin words beside it. On the border we met Raif, a nice and helpful guy driving a Yamaha Teneré on his way to Tajikistan.

Meeting Raif with his Yamaha Teneré

Together we bought an insurance for the bikes. After saying goodbye, we went on to Batumi, a beautiful city on the Black Sea. As we drove along the coast the view was amazing. The city was bathed in the warm afternoon light and the sea was glittering from orange to pink in the colors of the sunset. We decided to take a break and enjoy the breathtaking scenery. The owner of a nice restaurant on the seaside allowed us to use his terrace to watch the sunset.

Friendly guy at a restaurant cleaned our windshield – even though we did not eat there

We went on north out of Batumi to find an idyllic camping site called Robi directly at the sea where we pitched our tent in the last light of the day for the amazing price of 10 GEL per night for both of us.

Perfect camping spot on the beautiful Black Sea coast

After a good morning workout we spent the next day swimming, relaxing in the shadows and using the Wi-Fi.

Doing some morning yoga on the beach

Perfect working space

The other guests were a family from Belarus and some Russian people as well as two cute dogs that didn`t really belong to anyone but felt at home at the campsite.

Cute dog watching over Peter

They were looking for human closeness and nearly attacked Peter until he started stroking them. Good thing that we were vaccinated against every possible disease.

Visiting Katskhi pillar

After the second night we left in search of Katskhi pillar, a natural limestone monolith located in the western Georgian region of Imereti. We drove through nice curvy mountainous roads and stopped at a small shop to take a break.

Enjoying good coffee and cakes

The owner, a helpful lady didn`t speak any English but wanted to boil us some water immediately as we bought some frozen dumplings filled with meat called Khinkali.

Bying typically Georgian food for self-cooking

We met Katskhi pillar during sunset and went uphill with the motorcycle.

Exploring Katskhi pillar with the motorcycle

Unfortunately, it`s not possible to enter the ruins of the church on top, but we had a fantastic view of the fascinating rock.

Beautiful sunset at Katskhi pillar

The sight of the illuminated church on top is even more amazing during the night. We pitched our tent nearby and had an awesome view of the scene.

Camping spot viewing the illuminated church

As we lay in the tent we heard some party going on in the distance and thought that people around the world aren`t that different.

Finding shelter from the hailstorm

The next day we tried out our stove the first time to cook the Khinkali we bought. Happy from the good food we went towards Ninozminda to cross to Armenia. We went through mountainious regions as it suddenly started raining and hailing so hard that we stopped and tried to find a dry place.

Heavy rain and hailstorm suddenly appeared

We were grateful as a farmer let us stay in his garage for some time. After about half an hour the rain stopped, and we continued to the south. The street got worse every kilometer we went. Cows, horses and sheep were standing in the middle of the road and we had to do some animal slalom to prevent a collision.

Many cows share the street with us

The last kilometer before the border were an unpaved road and we were happy as we reached Armenia, where we spent a few days before going back to Georgia. The border crossing back to Georgia was easy and after about fifteen minutes we could enter Georgia again.

Amazing hospitality in Tbilisi

The road on this side of the country was much better so we reached Tbilisi in a short time. Through couchsurfing a German guy living in Tbilisi invited us to stay at his place. While we were waiting for him to arrive, another guy started talking to us. He went away and came back with two beers he gave to us.

Friendly stranger giving us beer on the street

When Hannes, our couchsurfing host, arrived he saw our beer and said: “Good, so you already started. I will take you to a pub later”. He showed us the city and a nice pub as well as a traditional local food restaurant where we tried a Georgian bean dish called Lobio that tasted delicious.

Typical Georgian food called Lobio

On our second day we met Lukas, another motorcyclist from Austria, again. We had a great time exchanging travel stories. Coming from Iran he gave us some good advices for the country.

Meeting Lukas from Austria again

We only stayed two nights in Tbilisi and would have stayed more if we didn`t have other places to go. The two days in Tbilisi went by so fast in the relaxing and peaceful atmosphere of the city that was once a trade stop on the old Silk Road. As we went towards Azerbaijan and stopped to buy some bread a family invited us to have dinner with them.

Georgian family invited us for delicious dinner at their home

Although we couldn`t understand each other as we didn`t speak any Georgian language or Russian we really enjoyed the company and the good Georgian food. Georgia really surprised us with its friendly people. We`ll definitely come back some day, because there are so many more things to explore in this beautiful country.

Duration of stay
12 Jun 2018 – 15 Jun 2018 and
17 Jun 2018 – 19 Jun 2018

Flag

Borders
first time entered from Turkey
exited to Armenia

second time entered from Armenia
exited to Azerbaijan

Visa
not needed for Austrian citizens

Weather
most of the time about 25°C – 30°C, once heavy rain and hailstorm in the mountains

Best experience
relaxing at the beautiful Black Sea coast at the nice and cheap campsite Robi for 10 GEL per night for both of us (about 3 Euro)

Worst experience
getting surprised by a hailstorm and having to wait for an hour under trees and in a garage for it to pass

Population
about 3,700,000 people

Religion
roughly 80% of Georgia`s population is Christian, most of them belonging to the Georgian Orthodox Church, freedom of religion is written in the country`s constitution

Interesting fact
The first Europeans came from Georgia. Archeological founds of human skulls suggest that the first people who travelled from Africa to Europe went through Georgia.

Travel tip
Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere in of the cafés in Tbilisi old town!