< Uzbekistan >

Architectural Pearl of the Silk Road

Uzbekistan is the country with the most beautiful oriental buildings on the old Silk Road. Amidst ancient towns with thousands of years of history, lively bazaars and friendly people awaited us in the biggest country of Central Asia. The oriental charm and the shiny turquoise domes of madrasahs, minarets and mosques were impressive to see and experience.

Impressive historical buildings in Uzbekistan

Drugs and Drones

“Do you have a drone? Or Tramal?”, the border officials asked looking at us closely. We had both of these forbidden items with us: a drone and pain medication. Without directly answering we started sorting our documents and handed them over to the officers. Thankfully they didn’t open our panniers and bags. The only one interested in our luggage was a dog thoroughly sniffing everything probably looking for drugs.

On our first stop shortly after the border a man in an old car stopped next to us. After exchanging our Turkmen Manat to Uzbek Com he invited us to his house. The whole family including grandparents, parents and four children were living together in only one room. Eating, sleeping and cooking all took place there. Upon seeing their house, we instantly felt bad at negotiating such a good exchange rate for us. The multi-layer-plate on the table was filled with different kinds of sweets. Apparently, they put everything they had for us on their table. Although we didn`t speak any Russian we were able to communicate basic topics and understood that he was normally a taxi driver but often exchanged money from people entering Uzbekistan from Tajikistan.

Friendly family put everything they had to eat on the table for us
Small cat also wanted to have some food

Xiva - Ancient City on the Silkroad

After a very hot day, late at night we arrived at a nice guesthouse called “Laliopa”. Having parked the motorcycle inside, we were lying in our airconditioned room enjoying the freedom of surfing in the unrestricted internet again for the first time since Iran. Most of the email programs, Facebook, Instagram, Youtube and many other websites were blocked in Turkmenistan. The next morning, we both felt sick and decided to stay in bed during the day. Our stomachs did not like the food from the previous day.

Finally relaxing after exhausting days in Turkmenistan

Later we felt well enough to ride to the city center of Xiva with a bicycle that we were allowed to use freely. The road was full of potholes and in a bad state but after about three kilometers we arrived in the old city center with a well paved main street.

Riding on bicycles along the old city walls

We parked the bicycles at another hotel and went to visit the historical old city of Xiva, called Ichan Qalʼа. We could easily imagine how more than a thousand years ago the caravans were taking some rest after crossing the hot desert Karakum coming from Persia. The sun was slowly setting over the Kalta Minor, the beautiful eye-catching tower.

Historical old town of Xiva
Sunset over Xiva
On the way back we met the Australian motorbiker Barry, who was travelling in the opposite direction. He invited us to watch the football world cup together with other travellers in the Alibek guest house, where he was staying. After France had beaten Croatia we were sitting on the rooftop exchanging travel information. We were surprised to hear about his exhausting experiences at the Chinese border. Everything was checked in detail, especially his electronic devices. We would definitely have to be prepared for that.
Meeting Barry, an Australian motorbiker

Buxoro - next stop for old caravans

The way to Buxoro was no spectacular ride. There was a straight new road thankfully without potholes through the barren desert, no curves and no shade. The thermometer displayed again more than 40 °C and we were really exhausted but happy when we finally arrived at the hotel. Our friend Emmanuel was already waiting. A few days ago, we have been to Turkmenistan together. We spent the evening taking a walk through the fascinating city center that impressed us by the unique architecture. There were spectacular buildings everywhere in the more than 2,000-year-old historic Silk Road city center.

Buxoro felt like an oasis in the middle of the desert for us
Meeting Emmanuel again after riding together in Turkmenistan
On the next day we exchanged some money at the bank and got a huge amount back, that wouldn`t even fit completely in our wallet. Peter was feeling bad again. The mixture of unbearable heat and not so hygienic food standards made his condition worse.
We felt like millionaires after exchanging some dollars in Uzbek Com
Peter was not feeling well

Samarqand

In Samarqand we planned to stay a few days to relax and regain some energy. Through social media we have been in contact with Philipe who was also staying in Samarqand at that time. Peter just wanted to stay in bed, so Claudia went out to meet Philipe alone.
Seeing the familiar bike of our Austrian friend

They took a walk through the Registan square, the ancient center of the city. The area was full of historical monuments. When they came back at night the owner of the hostel was still sitting outside. On the next day we could admire the turquoise domes that looked even more impressive in the daylight.

Typical historical building
Peter and Claudia looking at one of the many buildings on the famous Registon square

As Peter was feeling better, we went to a barber shop to cut his hair. We have never seen a barber being that concentrated and accurate before.

Peter getting a new haircut

While we were packing our stuff another motorbiker arrived at the hostel. It was Vincent from France, who also planned to ride the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan.

Meeting the French rider Vincent

Before our departure the owner of the hostel took Peter aside and warned him to be cautious about Claudia, who was apparently meeting up with other men while he was being ill. Peter assured him that everything was alright and that Philipe is a friend of ours from Vienna.

Our next destination was Tajikistan, a country we have been very curious about.

Route

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Info Box

Duration of stay
14.07.2018 – 19.07.2018

Entry point
Dashoguz (Turkmenistan)
Shavat (Uzbekistan)

Exit point
Jumabozor (Uzbekistan)
Panjakent (Tajikistan)

Currency
soʻm
(in Latin script)
сўм (in Cyrillic script)

Visa
Austrian citizens need a visa. It took one week at the embassy in Vienna. We applied for it before the start of our trip.

Weather
Way too hot! Average day-temperature was about 40 °C. Riding on the straight road through the desert between Xiva and Bukhara was tough for us.

Best experience
Getting invited by a family for dinner and see how they really live.

Worst experience
Being sick for days after the friendly invitation 😉

Religion
Before the Islamic expansion in the 7th century the main religion was Zoroastrianism. Nowadays most people are Sunni Muslims.

Travel tip
Get up early in the morning to walk around and enjoy the spectacular buildings. There are less tourists and the weather is more pleasant.

 

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Accommodation

Xiva
Hostel “Laliopa”
+ nice and comfortable with really good breakfast,
not in the city center, but we could borrow bicycles for free to visit the center

We had friends who stayed at Alibek Guest House, located in the city center.

Buxoro
Hotel Ziyobaxsh
+ very nice and clean with good breakfast in perfect location
expensive, we just went there to meet up with a friend

Samarqand
Registon Zargaron
+ located next to the famous public square Registan,
+ good breakfast
+ fair price

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Meet Afghan locals

See motorcycle camping

Ride in the desert